Course Prerequisites: No previous mixed experience is required but some trad experience is recommended. Participants must be able to offer a safe top-rope belay.
Course Content: This one-day course combines drytooling and mixed climbing with trad rock gear skills to give participants a foundation for naturally-protected trad mixed routes and even summer alpine mixed routes. These are necessary skills to progress to classic mixed routes like Coire Dubh Integrale, Red Man Soars, Mixed Master and even North face of Athabasca or Scottish winter climbing. Areas of focus will include hazard evaluation, thin ice, efficient movement, resting, lead strategy, icy cracks, stopper heading, hexes versus cams, ice hooks and piton craft. The goal of the day is to get all participants doing mock leads on a variety of different trad mixed routes at Haffner Creek.
Notes:
Hazards
Rockfall and Icefall
What are the Risks
Rockfall and icefall can be caused by natural forces or by people travelling through the terrain (e.g. climbing/scrambling/hiking)
Hazard Mitigation
Mitigated with certified and experienced guides, Helmets
Communication and Rescue
What are the Risks
Communication can be difficult and in the event of an accident, rescue and treatment may not be available| Adverse weather may also delay the arrival of treatment and transport out of the field
If an Injury occurs in challenging terrain movement to an evacuation point may be slow|
Hazard Mitigation
First Aid / Rescue Training| Satellite Communications |
Terrain
What are the Risks
Cornices | Crevasses | Trees, tree wells, and tree stumps | Cliffs | Creeks | Rocks and Boulders |Holes and depressions below the snow surface| Variable and difficult snow conditions |Snowcat roads and road ranks | Fences and other man-made structures | Impact or collision with other persons, vehicles or objects | Encounters with domestic or wild animals | Loss of balance or control | Becoming lost or separated from the group | Slips, trips, and falls|
Hazard Mitigation
Mitigated by Trained and experienced Guide| Radios
General Hazards
What are the Risks
Slips trips and falls indoor or outdoor| Equipment failure| Infectious disease contracted through viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungi which may be transmitted through direct or indirect contact| Negligence of other persons, including other guests| Negligent first aid| Negligence of the guide Including failure to take reasonable steps to safeguard or protect you from, or warn you of risk, dangers, hazards, on participating in ACC activities|
Hazard Mitigation
Developed safety plans and procedures with decades of experience managing risk.
Falls and Belaying
What are the Risks
Mountaineering and ice climbing present the risk of falling from the wall causing the climber to collide with the wall or ground which can lead to injury or death| The risk of a belay failure is also present which can contribute to a ground fall|
Hazard Mitigation
Reviewing best practices with the guide| Equipment checks|
Required Items to Bring:
Equipment: Participants should have their own harness, helmet, belay device, boots, crampons (mono-points are ideal but not necessary) and ice tools. Bring your own trad rack if you own it.
Recommended Items to Bring:
Warm belay jacket,extra pair of gloves,thermos
with hot drinks,lunch,
sun screen and camera.
How to Get There:
Event Directions:
guide will provide to participants
Notes:
Guide Bio: Sean Isaac is an ACMG Alpine Guide specializing in ice and mixed instruction. He has been ice climbing for 30 years and guiding for the past 20. He is author of the ACC “Ice Climbing Leaders Field Handbook” and “How to Ice Climb” by Falcon. He has also written the how-to book “Mixed Climbing” and the guidebook “Mixed Climbs in the Canadian Rockies”.
Payment Options:
Member $236.25 CAD
Cancellation Policy If a participant is unable to attend a paid course or trip, there will be no refund unless the participant finds a suitable replacement that is acceptable to the trip coordinator. Acceptable waiting list candidates will have priority. It will then be the participant's responsibility to recover funds from the replacement. If the coordinator cancels an event, participants get a refund (less any non-recoverable costs). Note that ACC National does not refund hut fees due to weather, delay, closures, or any other reasons. The Calgary Section of the ACC is a not for profit club and we only charge attendees what it costs us to provide courses or trips.
Trip Feedback If you have any feedback, positive or negative, concerning this trip or any other, we want to hear from you! You can send any feedback you may have to the Section Chair.
Waiver and Membership Requirement
Participation in this activity is subject to you having a current membership and a current signed
ACC Release of Liability, Waiver of Claims, Assumption of Risks Agreement (the “Waiver”), which is signed in conjunction with purchasing/renewing your membership.
A separate Waiver is not required. Your membership Waiver in place at the time of the activity will apply to your participation in this activity. You can review your completed waiver by logging onto your profile at alpineclubofcanada.ca. If your
membership renews prior to the activity taking place, you will be required to agree to a new Waiver upon renewal, this new Waiver will apply to your participation in this activity. By proceeding with the booking, you agree to the foregoing waiver terms. Bookings
without a current Waiver at the time of the activity will be cancelled.
The Waiver is a legal document by which you waive or give up the right to sue or claim compensation following an accident. PLEASE READ IT CAREFULLY! You can review your completed waiver by logging onto your profile at alpineclubofcanada.ca.
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