Building on past multipitch skills, we will refresh skills & best practices for big ice routes and introduce more advanced techniques like half rope usage, climbing as a party of 3 and decision making/risk management for large ice lines. The course includes a mix of skills training, guided multi-pitch climbing, and coached student-led multi-pitch practice.
Day One Objectives:
Refresh Multi Pitch Skills:
Fixed-point lead belay
Systems overview
Anchor construction
Top belay setup
Leaving the belay
Rappelling
Importance of exceptional anchors
Protecting the anchor early
Introduce New MP Skills:
Half rope usage for ascent/descent
Pros & Cons
Use cases as party of 3
Hazard Assessment and Route Choice:
Weather and timing
Line selection
Planning
Avalanche Terrain considerations & selection
Day Two and Three Objectives:
Day Two - Two Person Multi Pitch Practice:
Demonstrate and discuss decision making and tactics
Timing, line selection, belay positioning
Focus on multi pitch rappel systems repetition
V-threads vs. no-threads for descents
Half rope usage if applicable
Day Three - Two Person Multi Pitch Practice:
Coached MP with guide above providing coaching and support
Feedback on decision making and protection choices
This program will be instructed by Ethan Woodside. Ethan was born and raised in downtown Toronto and first discovered climbing at university. Currently an ACMG Apprentice Alpine Guide, rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing and skiing are all favourite pastimes. Ethan has been ice climbing for many years, some of his favourite local climbs include: Moonlight, Spray River Falls, Guinness Gully and Kitty Hawk.
Ethan is excited to help mentor climbers to reach their goals.
days 2 & 3 will include additional guide(s) as registration numbers require
Food and accommodation are not included.
Required Items to Bring:
Equipment List
Helmet
Harness
Belay device
Ice tools
Crampons
4× Locking carabiners
4× Non-locking carabiners
1× 120cm Dyneema sling
Ice screws (3× 13cm, 3× 17cm, 1× 22cm)
3× Ice clippers
6× Quickdraws
5m of 7mm cord
Avalanche safety set - shovel, probe & beacon
Mountaineering boots
40L Backpack (ice-tool compatible)
Socks (synthetic/wool blend, well-proven)
Long underwear top and bottoms (heavyweight synthetic or wool)
Lunch and snacks (high-calorie, high-fat recommended)
Thermos flask and/or water bottle (1–2L total)
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Hand and foot warmers
Headlamp
Notes:
Hazards
Rockfall and Icefall
Rockfall and icefall can be caused by natural forces or by people travelling through the terrain (e.g. climbing/scrambling/hiking)
Avalanche
Avalanches can occur in the terrain you will be entering| Caused by natural forces, or by people travelling through the terrain (skiing/snowboarding)| Anyone caught in an avalanche is at risk of personal injury, death, and/or property damage or loss.|
Communication and Rescue
Communication can be difficult and in the event of an accident, rescue and treatment may not be available| Adverse weather may also delay the arrival of treatment and transport out of the field
If an Injury occurs in challenging terrain movement to an evacuation point may be slow|
Terrain
Cornices | Crevasses | Trees, tree wells, and tree stumps | Cliffs | Creeks | Rocks and Boulders |Holes and depressions below the snow surface| Variable and difficult snow conditions |Snowcat roads and road ranks | Fences and other man-made structures | Impact or collision with other persons, vehicles or objects | Encounters with domestic or wild animals | Loss of balance or control | Becoming lost or separated from the group | Slips, trips, and falls|
General Hazards
Slips trips and falls indoor or outdoor| Equipment failure| Infectious disease contracted through viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungi which may be transmitted through direct or indirect contact| Negligence of other persons, including other guests| Negligent first aid| Negligence of the guide Including failure to take reasonable steps to safeguard or protect you from, or warn you of risk, dangers, hazards, on participating in ACC activities|
Falls and Belaying
Mountaineering and ice climbing present the risk of falling from the wall causing the climber to collide with the wall or ground which can lead to injury or death| The risk of a belay failure is also present which can contribute to a ground fall|
Cancellation Policy If a participant is unable to attend a paid course or trip, there will be no refund unless the participant finds a suitable replacement that is acceptable to the trip coordinator. Acceptable waiting list candidates will have priority. It will then be the participant's responsibility to recover funds from the replacement. If the coordinator cancels an event, participants get a refund (less any non-recoverable costs). Note that ACC National does not refund hut fees due to weather, delay, closures, or any other reasons. The Calgary Section of the ACC is a not for profit club and we only charge attendees what it costs us to provide courses or trips.
Trip Feedback If you have any feedback, positive or negative, concerning this trip or any other, we want to hear from you! You can send any feedback you may have to the Section Chair.
Waiver and Membership Requirement
Participation in this activity is subject to you having a current membership and a current signed
ACC Release of Liability, Waiver of Claims, Assumption of Risks Agreement (the “Waiver”), which is signed in conjunction with purchasing/renewing your membership.
A separate Waiver is not required. Your membership Waiver in place at the time of the activity will apply to your participation in this activity. You can review your completed waiver by logging onto your profile at alpineclubofcanada.ca. If your
membership renews prior to the activity taking place, you will be required to agree to a new Waiver upon renewal, this new Waiver will apply to your participation in this activity. By proceeding with the booking, you agree to the foregoing waiver terms. Bookings
without a current Waiver at the time of the activity will be cancelled.
The Waiver is a legal document by which you waive or give up the right to sue or claim compensation following an accident. PLEASE READ IT CAREFULLY! You can review your completed waiver by logging onto your profile at alpineclubofcanada.ca.
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