Week Four introduces the skills, systems, and decision-making required for multi-pitch ice climbing. You’ll learn how to manage ropes, anchors, belays, and transitions in a multi-pitch environment, while developing your judgment around hazards, timing, and route choices. The course includes a mix of skills training, guided multi-pitch climbing, and coached student-led multi-pitch practice.

Day One Objectives: 

Multi Pitch Skills:

• Fixed-point lead belay

• Systems overview

• Anchor construction

• Top belay setup

• Leaving the belay

• Rappelling

• Importance of exceptional anchors

• Protecting the anchor early

Hazard Assessment and Route Choice:

• Weather and timing

• Line selection

• Planning

Day One Lesson Plan:

• Field skills

• Review anchor building

• Rappelling

• Fixed-point lead belay

• Mock MP practice in low angle terrain or off ground

• PM session on hazard assessment, planning and route choice

Day Two and Three Objectives:

Day Two - Guided 2:1 Multi-Pitch:

• Demonstrate and discuss decision making and tactics

• Timing, line selection, belay positioning

• Focus on multi pitch rappel systems repetition

• V-threads vs. no-threads for descents

Day Three - Two Person Multi Pitch Practice:

• Coached MP with guide above providing coaching and support

• Feedback on decision making and protection choices

AMP Ice Progression program is designed to help participants learn and practice ice climbing to enable their progression throughout the ice season, in order to perfect their movement and other skills required to confidently move from being a skilled follower to leading single and multi pitch ice climbs in the winter season (and to continue into snow and ice in the alpine in spring and summer seasons).  Learning goals for the program will also include venue selection and route planning, hazard identification, assessment and mitigation, and strategies for maintaining high safety margins in winter conditions.  

Participants should be committed to attending the scheduled sessions, and to practicing their skills independently between instructional weeks. 

Participants should have some background in rope skills or rock climbing. 

This program will be instructed by Ethan Woodside. Ethan was born and raised in downtown Toronto and first discovered climbing at university. Currently an ACMG Apprentice Alpine Guide, rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing and skiing are all favourite pastimes.  Ethan has been ice climbing for many years, some of his favourite local climbs include: Moonlight, Spray River Falls, Guinness Gully and Kitty Hawk. 

Ethan is excited to help mentor climbers to reach their goals.

Food and accommodation are not included. 

Equipment List

• Helmet

• Harness

• Belay device

• Ice tools

• Crampons

• 4× Locking carabiners

• 4× Non-locking carabiners

• 1× 120cm Dyneema sling

• Ice screws (3× 13cm, 3× 17cm, 1× 22cm)

• 3× Ice clippers

• 6× Quickdraws

• 5m of 7mm cord

• Avalanche safety set - shovel, probe & beacon (may be needed for multipitch objectives)

• Mountaineering boots

• 40L Backpack (ice-tool compatible)

• Socks (synthetic/wool blend, well-proven)

• Long underwear top and bottoms (heavyweight synthetic or wool)

• Softshell pants and jacket

• Midweight synthetic or down jacket

• Warm insulating jacket

• Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood

• Multiple pairs of gloves - Ice climbing gloves, warm belay gloves/mitts

• Warm hat that fits under a helmet

• Lunch and snacks (high-calorie, high-fat recommended)

• Thermos flask and/or water bottle (1–2L total)

• Sunglasses

• Sunscreen

• Hand and foot warmers

• Headlamp

Hazards 

Rockfall and Icefall

Rockfall and icefall can be caused by natural forces or by people travelling through the terrain (e.g. climbing/scrambling/hiking)

Avalanche

Avalanches can occur in the terrain you will be entering| Caused by natural forces, or by people travelling through the terrain (skiing/snowboarding)| Anyone caught in an avalanche is at risk of personal injury, death, and/or property damage or loss.|

Communication and Rescue

Communication can be difficult and in the event of an accident, rescue and treatment may not be available| Adverse weather may also delay the arrival of treatment and transport out of the field 

If an Injury occurs in challenging terrain movement to an evacuation point may be slow|

Terrain

Cornices | Crevasses | Trees, tree wells, and tree stumps | Cliffs | Creeks | Rocks and Boulders |Holes and depressions below the snow surface| Variable and difficult snow conditions |Snowcat roads and road ranks | Fences and other man-made structures | Impact or collision with other persons, vehicles or objects | Encounters with domestic or wild animals | Loss of balance or control | Becoming lost or separated from the group | Slips, trips, and falls|

General Hazards 

Slips trips and falls indoor or outdoor| Equipment failure| Infectious disease contracted through viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungi which may be transmitted through direct or indirect contact| Negligence of other persons, including other guests| Negligent first aid| Negligence of the guide Including failure to take reasonable steps to safeguard or protect you from, or warn you of risk, dangers, hazards, on participating in ACC activities|

Falls and Belaying

Mountaineering and ice climbing present the risk of falling from the wall causing the climber to collide with the wall or ground which can lead to injury or death| The risk of a belay failure is also present which can contribute to a ground fall|