In week three, you will begin developing the strategic, technical, and mental skills needed for leading. The focus is on thoughtful screw placement, moving confidently through varied terrain, and learning the systems required for leading and bailing. You’ll also practice mock leads and learn how to be a strong, reliable lead belayer.
Objectives:
Lead Strategies and Screw Placement:
Screw placement and separation
Protecting bulges and top-outs
Climbing over bulges in control
Ice assessment and a line choice
Climber Mindset:
Presence
Movement vs. system based protection
Egress and Bailing:
Bailing progression on top rope; find stance - place screw - build and test thread - rappel
Cord vs no-thread
Lead Belayer Integrity and Safety:
Belayer position for leading
Ground anchor to maintain belayer integrity - outside icefall zone and strong catching position
Day One Lesson Plan:
Belayer integrity and safety
Mock leads w/ screw placement and strategy coaching
Line choices
Day Two Lesson Plan:
Egress and bailing on lead
Mindset, strategy and mock or real leads
AMP Ice Progression program is designed to help participants learn and practice ice climbing to enable their progression throughout the ice season, in order to perfect their movement and other skills required to confidently move from being a skilled follower to leading single and multi pitch ice climbs in the winter season (and to continue into snow and ice in the alpine in spring and summer seasons). Learning goals for the program will also include venue selection and route planning, hazard identification, assessment and mitigation, and strategies for maintaining high safety margins in winter conditions.
Participants should be committed to attending the scheduled sessions, and to practicing their skills independently between instructional weeks.
Participants should have some background in rope skills or rock climbing.
This program will be instructed by Ethan Woodside. Ethan was born and raised in downtown Toronto and first discovered climbing at university. Currently an ACMG Apprentice Alpine Guide, rock climbing, mountaineering, ice climbing and skiing are all favourite pastimes. Ethan has been ice climbing for many years, some of his favourite local climbs include: Moonlight, Spray River Falls, Guinness Gully and Kitty Hawk.
Ethan is excited to help mentor climbers to reach their goals.
Food and accommodation are not included.
Required Items to Bring:
Equipment List
Helmet
Harness
Belay device
Ice tools
Crampons
4× Locking carabiners
4× Non-locking carabiners
1× 120cm Dyneema sling
2× Ice clippers
6× Quickdraws
5m of 7mm cord
Mountaineering boots
40L Backpack (ice-tool compatible)
Socks (synthetic/wool blend, well-proven)
Long underwear top and bottoms (heavyweight synthetic or wool)
Lunch and snacks (high-calorie, high-fat recommended)
Thermos flask and/or water bottle (1–2L total)
Sunglasses
Sunscreen
Hand and foot warmers
Headlamp
Optional Equipment:
Ice screws (3× 13cm, 3× 17cm, 1× 22cm)
Notes:
Hazards
Rockfall and Icefall
Rockfall and icefall can be caused by natural forces or by people travelling through the terrain (e.g. climbing/scrambling/hiking)
Avalanche
Avalanches can occur in the terrain you will be entering| Caused by natural forces, or by people travelling through the terrain (skiing/snowboarding)| Anyone caught in an avalanche is at risk of personal injury, death, and/or property damage or loss.|
Communication and Rescue
Communication can be difficult and in the event of an accident, rescue and treatment may not be available| Adverse weather may also delay the arrival of treatment and transport out of the field
If an Injury occurs in challenging terrain movement to an evacuation point may be slow|
Terrain
Cornices | Crevasses | Trees, tree wells, and tree stumps | Cliffs | Creeks | Rocks and Boulders |Holes and depressions below the snow surface| Variable and difficult snow conditions |Snowcat roads and road ranks | Fences and other man-made structures | Impact or collision with other persons, vehicles or objects | Encounters with domestic or wild animals | Loss of balance or control | Becoming lost or separated from the group | Slips, trips, and falls|
General Hazards
Slips trips and falls indoor or outdoor| Equipment failure| Infectious disease contracted through viruses, bacteria, parasites, and fungi which may be transmitted through direct or indirect contact| Negligence of other persons, including other guests| Negligent first aid| Negligence of the guide Including failure to take reasonable steps to safeguard or protect you from, or warn you of risk, dangers, hazards, on participating in ACC activities|
Falls and Belaying
Mountaineering and ice climbing present the risk of falling from the wall causing the climber to collide with the wall or ground which can lead to injury or death| The risk of a belay failure is also present which can contribute to a ground fall|
Cancellation Policy If a participant is unable to attend a paid course or trip, there will be no refund unless the participant finds a suitable replacement that is acceptable to the trip coordinator. Acceptable waiting list candidates will have priority. It will then be the participant's responsibility to recover funds from the replacement. If the coordinator cancels an event, participants get a refund (less any non-recoverable costs). Note that ACC National does not refund hut fees due to weather, delay, closures, or any other reasons. The Calgary Section of the ACC is a not for profit club and we only charge attendees what it costs us to provide courses or trips.
Trip Feedback If you have any feedback, positive or negative, concerning this trip or any other, we want to hear from you! You can send any feedback you may have to the Section Chair.
Waiver and Membership Requirement
Participation in this activity is subject to you having a current membership and a current signed
ACC Release of Liability, Waiver of Claims, Assumption of Risks Agreement (the “Waiver”), which is signed in conjunction with purchasing/renewing your membership.
A separate Waiver is not required. Your membership Waiver in place at the time of the activity will apply to your participation in this activity. You can review your completed waiver by logging onto your profile at alpineclubofcanada.ca. If your
membership renews prior to the activity taking place, you will be required to agree to a new Waiver upon renewal, this new Waiver will apply to your participation in this activity. By proceeding with the booking, you agree to the foregoing waiver terms. Bookings
without a current Waiver at the time of the activity will be cancelled.
The Waiver is a legal document by which you waive or give up the right to sue or claim compensation following an accident. PLEASE READ IT CAREFULLY! You can review your completed waiver by logging onto your profile at alpineclubofcanada.ca.
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The trip coordinator needs to review and accept your application for this event. Add yourself to the waiting list here.