AMP Alpine Ice introduces the skills, systems, and decision-making required for alpine multi-pitch ice climbing. You’ll learn how to manage ropes, anchors, belays, transitions, and gain egress in an alpine ice environment. You will manage multiple overlapping hazards while developing your judgment around timing and route choices. The course includes a mix of skills training, guided multi-pitch climbing, and coached student-led multi-pitch practice.
Objectives:
Objective 1: Glacier Ice Climbing
Climbing:
One tool
Two tool
Efficiency and nuances
Terrain manipulation
Protection consideration
Objective 2: Glacier Ice Anchors
Strength
Stratagies
Defending the anchor
Objective 3: Glacier Ice Egress
V-threads
Positioning for icefall
Managing complex overhead hazard
Timing
Objective 4: Glacier Ice and Alpine Systems
Mp Systems
Movement vs anchors for protection
Enter and exit climbing rope transition strategies
Day One Lesson Plan:
North Glacier or Similar
Glacier Ice Climbing
General Hazards Review
Day Two Lesson Plan:
A2 or similar
Anchors and threads for egress
Managing multiple overlapping hazards
Glacier ice and alpine systems
Day Three Lesson Plan:
Andromachee
Preparing the rope for glacier travel
Moving as a rope team
Transition to climbing mode
MP climbing
Alpine ice egress
Price includes 3 days guided instruction, does not include food or accommodation
Required Items to Bring:
Helmet
Harness
Belay device
Ice tools
Crampons
4× Locking carabiners
4× Non-locking carabiners
1× 120cm Dyneema sling
Ice screws (3× 13cm, 3× 17cm, 1× 22cm)
2× Ice clippers
6× Quickdraws
5m of 7mm cord
Avalanche safety set (may be needed for multipitch objectives)
Mountaineering boots
40L Backpack (ice-tool compatible)
Socks (synthetic/wool blend, well-proven)
Long underwear top and bottoms (heavyweight synthetic or wool)
Softshell pants and jacket
Midweight synthetic or down jacket
Warm insulating jacket
Waterproof hardshell jacket with hood
Leather gloves
Warm hat that fits under a helmet
Lunch and snacks (high-calorie, high-fat recommended)
Cancellation Policy If a participant is unable to attend a paid course or trip, there will be no refund unless the participant finds a suitable replacement that is acceptable to the trip coordinator. Acceptable waiting list candidates will have priority. It will then be the participant's responsibility to recover funds from the replacement. If the coordinator cancels an event, participants get a refund (less any non-recoverable costs). Note that ACC National does not refund hut fees due to weather, delay, closures, or any other reasons. The Calgary Section of the ACC is a not for profit club and we only charge attendees what it costs us to provide courses or trips.
Trip Feedback If you have any feedback, positive or negative, concerning this trip or any other, we want to hear from you! You can send any feedback you may have to the Section Chair.
Waiver and Membership Requirement
Participation in this activity is subject to you having a current membership and a current signed
ACC Release of Liability, Waiver of Claims, Assumption of Risks Agreement (the “Waiver”), which is signed in conjunction with purchasing/renewing your membership.
A separate Waiver is not required. Your membership Waiver in place at the time of the activity will apply to your participation in this activity. You can review your completed waiver by logging onto your profile at alpineclubofcanada.ca. If your
membership renews prior to the activity taking place, you will be required to agree to a new Waiver upon renewal, this new Waiver will apply to your participation in this activity. By proceeding with the booking, you agree to the foregoing waiver terms. Bookings
without a current Waiver at the time of the activity will be cancelled.
The Waiver is a legal document by which you waive or give up the right to sue or claim compensation following an accident. PLEASE READ IT CAREFULLY! You can review your completed waiver by logging onto your profile at alpineclubofcanada.ca.
SIGN UP HERE
This event is full. If you register, you will be placed on the waiting list in case of a cancellation.