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AMP 2-3: Mt
Victoria, North Summit, an 11,000er
The selected destination is now Eisenhower Tower multipitch trad climb on Castle Mountain.
This
mentorship event is part of the AMP (Alpine Mentorship Program) organized by
the ACC Calgary Section jointly with PeakStratagem’s ACMG Mountain Guides Brent
Peters and Patrick Delaney, with a target 2:1 participant-to-guide ratio. Patrick will be the main guide on this trip.
Alpine
Mentorship Program Goals
The AMP program
focuses on developing safe skills for summer and winter mountaineering,
including rope systems for glacier travel, crevasse rescue, trip planning and
navigation. Learning and practising safe and efficient travel is considered more valuable than reaching a summit.
Required Mountain Skills and Experience The ideal participant has done multiple alpine trips such as Athabasca and wants to start or is already leading similar trips. This AMP
2-3 event is suitable for intermediate to advanced mountaineers comfortable
with 2-person crevasse rescue, steep snow, ice climbing and basic to intermediate rock climbing
skills. Participants are expected to have taken a crevasse
rescue course and be comfortable on exposed rock and snow slopes (>45
degrees). Rappelling and advanced scrambling experience is expected to go up and
down the black band below the North Victoria-Collier col. Given the early summer conditions, we will
carry avalanche gear. Participants need to have completed an AST1 course at a
minimum. Regarding fitness levels, participants will need enough stamina to
complete a 12-hour day at a moderate pace with 1,600 meters of elevation gain. With those pre-requisite skills under your belt, this trip is your chance to
take charge and expand your skills while under the mentorship and coaching of
an alpine guide.
Costs
We will leave Calgary/Cochrane at around 6:30 pm the
night before the ascent and camp at the Johnston Canyon campground. The cost for this event is $560 per person and includes a day of
mentorship with an ACMG guide from PeakSTRATAGEM (2:1 guiding ratio), along with the camping fees. Carpooling fees are extra.
If there is sufficient interest for this trip, a second Peak Strategem guide will likely become available, and a second rope team (1 guide and 2 participants) will be formed.
Note: there is a slim chance that conditions improve and appear optimal for the climb. In such case, our guide may accept a fourth person on the rope team (3:1 guiding ratio), which will reduce the costs per participant. If such a situation occurs, the decision will be communicated only within a couple of days of the departure date.
Registration The Process
to sign up s as follows:
- Put your name on the waitlist.
- Email alpine@acccalgary.ca and joad.clement@gmail.com
with:
i. Details of your mountain experience (4 to 5-line paragraph).
ii. Skills for coaching and mentoring: what
skills are we looking for coaching/mentoring on during this trip? (This will
help to find like-minded participants, and also should help us confirm that we
have selected an appropriate objective.)
iii. Once
this info has been reviewed you will be notified if you are accepted on the
event.
- You will be asked to make your
payment by clicking the Buy Now button below. You do not need a PayPal
account. You can pay with a credit card.
- Once you have paid, you will
automatically be added to the attendee list.
A
planning group call will take place a few days prior to the trip to confirm the
objective and plan the group gear.
Alternate Objective
With the early summer conditions, a too-warm weather forecast
may prevent us from attempting this objective due to the high chances of post
holing on the glacier, and the exposure to rock falls and avalanches. In such a
scenario, an alternate multipitch rock climb such as Castle Mountain’s
Eisenhower Peak SE face 5.5/5.6 or Brewer Buttress 5.6 will be considered.
Photo credit: Vern Dewit (July 2015)
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