Are you leading, or thinking of leading alpine snow and ice trips for the Alpine Club? Would you like to develop your leadership skills with instruction from an ACMG guide? Then read on!

This course is designed for the leader who wants to take the next step up in leading alpine snow & ice climbs for the section. It is intended for leaders who already have skills in glacier travel, short roping and ice climbing and want to gain some skills in leading groups on multi-pitch summer ice routes. We will focus on managing a rope team of three on a route that involves glacier travel, several technical snow and ice pitches, short roping and a multi-pitch rappel and/or lower descent. The participants will be leading all of the pitches to gain experience, thus all participants should be capable of leading on easy technical ice to Grade II.

We will spend the first day in skills practice (likely on the North glacier of Mt. Athabasca) working on systems and rope handling to facilitate an actual climb on the second or third day. We will look at rope handling, belay and rappel station management for a three person rope team. Our focus will be on safe, quick, efficient systems for getting up those routes that involve more than just simple glacier travel. The intent at this time is to climb a peak at the Columbia Icefields on the second or third day via a technical ice route. This is all dependent upon weather and conditions, of course, and is subject to change. The course will be limited to a maximum of four participants (2 rope teams).

Prerequisites:

• Experience ascending glaciated peaks involving both snow and ice
• Experience seconding or leading on multi-pitch rock or ice climbs

This course is arranged through Rescue Dynamics and is taught by Cyril Shokoples, an internationally certified mountain guide and Past President of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. Cyril has received the Distinguished Service Award from both the ACC and the ACMG. In 2013, Cyril was inducted as an honorary member of the ACC. He has taught the ACC's North Face National Leadership Courses for the past 15 years and has a long history of instruction with the Calgary Section.

The cost for the weekend course is $398.75

See the notes section below for more information and full payment details.

• Harness
• Helmet
• Appropriate boots (suitable for technical ice)
• Gaiters
• Crampons
• Ice Axe and ice hammer (2 technical tools)
• Black Diamond ATC Guide¢â or Petzl Reverso 3 or 4¢â
• Ice screws (if you already own them; otherwise provided)
• One 6m X 7mm nylon cordelette
• One 120cm sewn sling (nylon or Spectra)
• Carabiners - 2 locking / 6 non-locking / 1 triple action locking
• One 10m continuous piece of very soft/supple 6mm nylon cord
• Proper set of Purcell Prussics

All participants are required to complete a medical form and waiver before each course. Participants are responsible for their own climbing equipment, food, boots, clothing and accommodation. When participants do not have the requisite equipment, much of the technical gear can be provided for climbing courses if the instructor is contacted well in advance.