(Thanks to Susan for the prior trip plan
write-up!)
The main objective of the trip is to climb
Mt. Aberdeen and Haddo Peak, via the standard
glacier route beginning at the Fairview
Mountain trailhead, going through Surprise
Valley, to the Aberdeen/Hado col. We will
(most likely) descend back to Lake Louise
through Surprise Pass. Aberdeen is a grade II
alpine climb: ~300 meters of 40-55 degree
alpine ice, glacier travel, some 4th class rock
and/or a bergshrund crossing, and spectacular
views. The total round trip time car to car
will be up to 24 hours, including sleeping time
at the bivy site.
We will do the approach hike (3 hours, 750 m
gain) to the the bottom of the glacier on
Friday evening, and have a bivouac there
(weather permitting). A NP
Wilderness Pass is mandatory to do so. Please
have a winter sleeping bag as the valley is a
freezer more than a fridge. Do not assume there
will be running water at the bivy site.
The meeting venue and time is at
Laggan's Bakery in Lake Louise on Friday at
6:30 p.m. in order to leave the trailhead at 7
p.m. I will be already in Lake Louise on
Friday, thus will not be able to coordinate
carpooling from Calgary. I will need someone to
take care of that.
When registering, if we have not climbed
together before, please email me a list of
relevant alpine, waterfall ice, and advanced
scrambling objectives you've completed,
including dates and your role on the
trip (e.g. leader, co-leader, second, or
guided trip). Also let me know the last time
you practiced crevasse rescue and self arrest.
Preference will be given to those participants
I have been out in the mountains with before or
who have enough alpine experience. That said, a
mix of experience/skill is welcome on the
trip. As a minimum, everyone should be trained
and practiced in crevasse rescue & glacier
travel, and have been on at least a few ice
climbs previously. I am looking for at
least one participant who is willing and able
to competently lead for a second rope team for
the 4- to 6-participant scenario to be
possible.
Required Items to Bring:
Bivy gear (mat, winter sleeping bag, tarp or
bivy bag), glacier travel and ice climbing
gear (including 2 ice tools, 1 ice crew,
suitable crampons, harness, helmet,
mountaineering boots). Sun protection. Food and
water for 24 hours. Winter clothing and rain
gear.
Wilderness Pass (annual or 1-day pass): passes
can be bought at the LL visitor center
www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-
np/ab/banff/visit/installations-
facilities.aspx#visit (allow 30 minutes to get
your pass due to high number of tourists).
Group gear to be discussed once participants
are confirmed on the trip.
Notes:
If we have not climbed together before, send me
a
list of relevant alpine, waterfall ice, and
advanced scrambling objectives you've done when
registering.
Send me also your National Parks Wilderness
Pass # (if annual) and expiry date.
The trip will be confirmed (or cancelled) on
Thursday night July 21 around 6 p.m. based on
the weather forecast and mountain conditions
available then.
Cancellation Policy If a participant is unable to attend a paid course or trip, there will be no refund unless the participant finds a suitable replacement that is acceptable to the trip coordinator. Acceptable waiting list candidates will have priority. It will then be the participant's responsibility to recover funds from the replacement. If the coordinator cancels an event, participants get a refund (less any non-recoverable costs). Note that ACC National does not refund hut fees due to weather, delay, closures, or any other reasons. The Calgary Section of the ACC is a not for profit club and we only charge attendees what it costs us to provide courses or trips.
Trip Feedback If you have any feedback, positive or negative, concerning this trip or any other, we want to hear from you! You can send any feedback you may have to the Section Chair.
Registration for this event closed on Thursday, July 21, 2016 at 06:00 PM.